Sunyata Travel

Rock Climbing

Beyond the water and trails, Bhutan's adventure experiences extend to rock climbing, where you can test your limits and conquer towering cliffs while reveling in breathtaking vistas.

Rock Climbing Routes

At the beginning chimney and first crack(4b)climb, then to left of significant crack to the top. If approached through a cave higher on the slope the walker” Crack is just the only real beginner climb of the Nose

Beautiful and challenging route with a variety of moves. Route begins with two tough moves(6B,6B):sharp pocket for left middle finger to pull left foot up on small ledge. Use smear for left hand to stand up and get excellent finger pocket. Second overhang (6+): get your feet up high and use under cling to move1/2 mtr tot he right of 4th bolt. third overhang (5th bolt,6B) bring legs almost to level of handhold and stand up to reach pocket left of ring bolt. The route is not only difficult, but in June is also infested by nasty sandflies.

 

Route has its charming name from the pounded clay chorten with ashes of the dead, which were put in small cave 2 mtrs above beginning of the route. Start with tricky friction plus balance moves (6A) up to 1st bolt, crux between bolt 2&3, tiny knobbles (finger power! 6B) to small ledge under overhang.

Start 5 mtrs right of Easy Peasy at belay bolt. Route leads over series of pockets which look better than they are) through vertical wall. Crux (6A) just above 1st bolt. The first Red Point climb happened on the day of a grand puja in Punakha, which only takes place once in twelve years.

Start in the middle of the comfortable ledge on the right rock. Friction moves slightly to the left to the 1st bolt, then either direct (left, 5A) to the ledge 6 mtrs above ground or right to flake. From flake horizontally over to the ledge (4B). Walk 3 mtrs on ledge towards right, then follow ramp up(4A).Then easier toward significant small roof (Looks more difficult than it is) and over it. Easy to the top.

Same start as Easy Peasy, cross over to flake until you stand at top. With some tricky friction moves follow ridge straight up(3 bolts) until you join Easy Peasy under the significant overhang.

With some 27mtrs length longest route on the Nose. Elegant superb and exposed climb on vertical right pillar of left rock. Tricky begining(5C). Stretch carefully to reach (and Preach) out for a small finger ledge for right hand, more difficult for short people, traverse to the left to 1st bolt. Big hand pocket to the left, climb straightly to the right and straight up to huge hand fold for right hand. Crux move (“feet and Faith , 6A+) at 2nd bolt. Get your feet up as high as possible (frog position) and standup using under grip for left hand. Long run out to next bolt. From there splendid and exposed climb until top (4B/5-).

Exposed route over the two overhanging bulges of the left rock(5m left of Reach and Preach). Crux(5A/5+) at second overhang, afterwards through wonderful rockeasy(3C/4-) to the top.

Name to acknowledge the Austrian contribution to developing the nose into a climbing Gym. First mtr like half moon, then up and around the significant pillar. Athletic, airy and surprising a easy route.

Athletic start (6A+/7-]through overhang using only under grips until left end of distinct ledge. Mantle with help of artificial bolt to squat on ledge (“Half Moon”) (6C/7+). Rest {standing up, keeping balance and pulling through roof (7B/8+)}still unclimbed and no body has a clue how to do it. Guests are welcome to red point Bhutan’s most difficult climbing route.

Route starts 4mtrs to the right of Energy Crisis. Crux between bolt 2 & 3, where good balancing is required. Where rock gets steeper, hand holds are excellent. 4mtrs run out on top.

On left arête of rock above Sergei’s Nose. Underneath lovely Picnic spot. Move over ramp to arête. Straight up to huge flake which serves good under grip. Then work your way up through overhang using big jug above flake and flake itself (which is forming into a crack higher up). Sufficient  under arm power and balance required.

jump-fnl
Nose-rock-face–1
arg4
Pankaj-abseiling